Ke u mema hore u nke leeto le nahanang ho pholletsa le Mexico City e hlomphehang le e tšepahalang joalo ka lekholong la bo18 le la bo19 la lilemo. Ha re ntse re feta re tla fumana hohle ponts'o ea mebala le masela liaparong tsa baahi ba motse-moholo.
Hang-hang re tla ea tšimong, litsela tsa 'nete le litselana li tla re isa ho nahanisisa ka libaka tsa libaka tse fapaneng, re tla kena litoropong, haciendas le mapolasing. Banna le basali, lithanka, batho ba sa sebetseng, balemi, balisa kapa beng ba masimo ba apara ka setaele sa Creole, leha ho latela morabe oa bona, bong le maemo a bona sechabeng.
Leeto lena le inahaneloang le tla khoneha ka lebaka la bangoli, baetsi ba litšoantšo le baetsi ba litšoantšo ba neng ba tseba ho nka seo ba se boneng Mexico ka nako eo. Baltasar de Echave, Ignacio Barreda, Villaseñor, Luis Juárez, Rodríguez Juárez, José Páez le Miguel Cabrera ke karolo ea bongata ba bataki, ba Mexico le basele, ba neng ba tšoantšetsa Mexico, mokhoa oa hae oa ho phela, ho phela le ho apara. Empa ha re hopoleng mofuta o mong o motle oa bonono ba setso, metako ea mekhahlelo, e neng e sa bonts'e feela batho ba hlahileng ka metso ea merabe, empa tikoloho, moaparo esita le mabenyane ao ba a apereng.
Lekholong la bo19 la lilemo, a makalitsoe ke lefats'e "le sa tloaelehang" le hlalositsoeng ke Baron Humboldt, William Bullock le Joel. R. Poinsett, baeti ba bangata ba tummeng ba fihlile Mexico, har'a bona ke ba Marchioness Calderón de la Barca le ba bang, ba kang Linati, Egerton, Nevel, Pingret le Rugendas ba ileng ba fapanyetsana le Ma-Mexico Arrieta, Serrano, Castro, Cordero, Icaza le Alfaro tabatabelo ea ho hlahisa batho ba Mexico. Bangoli ba tummeng joalo ka Manuel Payno, Guillermo Prieto, Ignacio Ramírez –el Nigromante–, José Joaquín Fernandez de Lizardi le hamorao Artemio de Valle Arizpe ba re sietse maqephe a bohlokoa haholo a liketsahalo tsa letsatsi le letsatsi tsa linako tseo.
Boikutlo ba Viceregal
Ha re ee ho Plaza ramotse hoseng ka Sontaha. Ka lehlakoreng le leng ho hlaha, a felehelitsoe ke lelapa la hae le moifo oa hae, Viceroy Francisco Fernández de la Cueva, 'Musisi oa Albuquerque. Ka kariking e ntle e tlisitsoeng ho tsoa Europe o tla utloa boima ho Cathedral.
Ha ho sa na lisutu tse lefifi tse hlabosang tsa ho ella qetellong ea lekholo la leshome le metso e ts'eletseng la lilemo eo mabothobotho a hae e neng e le li-ruffles tse tšoeu feela. Kajeno feshene ea setaele sa Fora ea Bourbons e ntse e atile. Banna ba roala liwigi tse telele, tse kobehileng le tse nang le phofshoana, bakete ea velvet kapa ea marotholi, li-collar tsa Belgian kapa tsa Fora, marikhoe a silika, masokisi a masoeu, le lieta tsa letlalo kapa tsa lesela tse nang le mekotla e mebala.
Mafumahali a lekholo la leshome le metso e robeli la lilemo la lilemo a roala masela a silika kapa marokete a nang le mela e phatlalalitsoeng le marikhoe a sephara, ao ho ona ho behiloeng foreimi ea likhupu tse bitsoang "guardainfante". Liaparo tsena tse rarahaneng li na le mekhabiso e khabisitsoeng, e khabisitsoeng, ea khauta le ea silevera, lifate tsa fragola, majoe a majoe a majoe, lifaha, li-sequin le lithane tsa silika. Bana ba apara joalo ka liaparo tsa batsoali ba bona le mabenyane. Liaparo tsa makhabunyane, maqephe le bakoetlisi li makatsa hoo li bakang litšeho ho batho ba fetang ka tsela.
Malapa a ruileng a Creole le mestizo a kopitsa liaparo tsa lekhotla la viceregal ho li apara meketjaneng. Bophelo ba boiketlo ba sechaba bo matla haholo: lijo, lijo tse bobebe, mantsiboea a bongoli kapa 'mino, li-gala saraos le mekete ea bolumeli li tlatsa nako ea banna le basali. Batho ba phahameng ba Creole ha ba teng liphahlo le mabenyane feela, empa le meralo ea meaho, lipalangoang, bonono lipontšong tsa eona tse fapaneng le linthong tsohle tsa letsatsi le letsatsi. Baruti ba phahameng, sesole, barutehi le bataki ba bang ba fapanyetsana le "bahlomphehi" bao le bona ba nang le makhoba, bahlanka le basali ba emetseng.
Lihlopheng tse holimo moaparo oa fetoha le liketsahalo. Batho ba Europe ba laola feshene, empa litšusumetso tsa Asia le matsoalloa a teng lia hlaka, li baka liaparo tse ikhethang joalo ka shawl, eo bafuputsi ba bangata ba reng e bululetsoe ke saree ea India.
Khaolo e arohaneng e tšoaneloa ke lihlahisoa tsa Bochabela tse tlang ka likepeng. Silika, li-brocade, mahakoe, balateli ba tsoang Chaena, Japane le Philippines li amoheloa hohle. Silika e khabisitsoeng ka mekhabiso ea Manila e nang le likhoele tse telele ka ho tšoanang e hohela baahi ba New Spain. Ke ka hona re bonang hore basali ba Zapotec ba Isthmus le ba Chiapas ba pheta meralo ea shawl meseeng ea bona, li-blouses le likhukhuni tsa bona.
Sehlopha sa bohareng se apara liaparo tse bonolo. Basali ba bacha ba apara liaparo tse bobebe ka mebala e matla, ha basali ba baholo le bahlolohali ba apara mebala e lefifi e nang le melala e phahameng, matsoho a malelele le mantilla e phahamisitsoeng ke khekhe ea likolopata.
Ho tloha bohareng ba lekholo la bo18 la lilemo, feshene ha ea feteletsoa haholo ho banna, li-wig lia khutsufatsoa 'me libaking kapa liaparo tsa ka holimo li hlaphohetsoe ebile li nyane. Basali ba rata liaparo tse majabajaba, empa joale mese ea tsona ha e pharaletse; Lioache tse peli li ntse li leketlile thekeng, e 'ngoe e tšoaea nako ea Spain ha e' ngoe e le ea Mexico. Hangata ba roala li-tortoisehell kapa "velvet" tsa velvet, hangata li khabisitsoe ka liperela kapa majoe a bohlokoa.
Joale, tlasa taelo ea Viceroy Conde de Revillagigedo, baroki, maroko, marikhoe, baetsi ba lieta, likatiba, jj. Ba se ba ntse ba hlophisitsoe ka mekhatlo ea basebetsi ho laola le ho sireletsa mosebetsi oa bona, kaha karolo e kholo ea liaparo e se e entsoe New. Spain. Libakeng tsa baitlami, baitlami ba etsa masela, masela a khabisitsoeng, hlatsoa, starch, sethunya le tšepe, ntle le mekhabiso ea bolumeli, liaparo, liaparo tsa lapeng le liaparo tse telele.
Sutu e supa mang kapa mang ea e apereng, ka lebaka leo ho fanoe ka taelo ea borena e thibelang katiba le kape, hobane banna ba makatsang hangata ke banna ba boitšoaro bo bobe. Batho ba batšo ba roala masela a silika kapa a k'hothone a majabajaba, matsoho a malelele le mabanta thekeng ke moetlo. Basali le bona ba roala meqathatso e feteleditsoeng hoo ba bileng le lebitso la bosoasoi "harlequins". Liaparo tsa hae kaofela li mebala e khanyang, haholo-holo tse khubelu.
Meea ea nchafatso
Nakong ea Leseli, qetellong ea lekholo la bo17 la lilemo, leha ho bile le liphetoho tse kholo sechabeng, lipolotiking le moruong tseo Europe li ileng tsa qala ho ba le tsona, bapresidente ba ile ba tsoela pele ho phela bophelo ba litšila tse kholo tse neng li tla susumetsa maikutlo a atileng nakong ea boipuso. Moralo oa meralo Manuel Tolsá, eo, har'a tse ling, a phethileng kaho ea kereke e kholo ea Mexico, o tla a apere ka feshene ea morao-rao: seaparo se tšoeu se tšoeu, baki ea lesela la boea le 'mala le sehiloeng se hlonephileng. Liaparo tsa basali li na le tšusumetso ea Goya, li ntle, empa li mebala e lefifi ka bongata ba lifate tsa lace le fragola. Li koahela mahetla kapa lihlooho ka mantilla ea khale. Hona joale, basali ba "bobebe", ba tsuba khafetsa ebile ba bala le ho bua ka lipolotiki.
Lekholo la lilemo hamorao, litšoantšo tsa basali ba banyane ba neng ba il'o kena ntlong ea baitlami, ba hlahang ba apere ka bokhabane le mahakoe a mangata, le majalefa a marena a matsoalloa, a hlahisitsoeng ka meqhaka e khabisitsoeng haholo, a sala e le bopaki ba liaparo tsa basali ka tsela ea Spain.
Literata tse phetheselang haholo Mexico City ke Plateros le Tacuba. Ha a le moo, mabenkele a ikhethileng a bontša lisutu, likatiba, likhafo le mabenyane a tsoang Europe mapolankeng a lehlakoreng, ha a le "liholong" kapa "litafoleng" tse ka lehlakoreng le leng la Ntlo ea borena, ho rekisoa masela a mefuta eohle le masela. Baratillo, ho a khonahala ho fumana liaparo tsa letsoho la bobeli ka litheko tse tlase bakeng sa batho ba maemo a tlase ba futsanehileng.
Bokgale ba ho ba thata
Mathoasong a lekholo la bo19 la lilemo, liaparo tsa basali li ile tsa fetoha haholo. Tlas'a tšusumetso ea mehla ea Napoleon, liaparo li batla li otlolohile, ka masela a bonolo, thekeng e phahameng le matsoho a "balune"; moriri o mokhuts'oane o tlameletsoe 'me lifahleho tse nyane li kobe sefahleho. Ho koahela molaleng o pharaletseng basali ba na le likhafo tsa marang-rang le likhafo, tseo ba li bitsang "modín". Ka 1803, Baron de Humboldt o apere mekhoa ea morao-rao ea feshene: marikhoe a malelele, baki ea mofuta oa sesole le katiba e bophara ba brimm. Hona joale marapo a sutu ea banna a masene haholo.
Ka ntoa ea boipuso ea 1810 ho tla linako tse thata moo moea oa tšenyo ea nako e fetileng o se nang sebaka. Mohlomong mokhelo o le mong ke 'muso oa nakoana oa Agustín de Iturbide, ea eang setulong sa hae sa borena ka cape ea ermine le moqhaka o se nang kelello.
Banna ba na le moriri o mokhuts'oane 'me ba roala lisutu tse thata, marikhoe a mohatla kapa lijase tse nang le marikhoe a boea bo lefifi. Lihempe li tšoeu, li na le molala o phahameng o koahetsoeng ka liqha kapa li-plastrones (maqhama a pharaletseng). Bahlomphehi ba nang le litelu le litelu ba ikhohomosa ba sebelisa katiba le lehlaka. Ke kamoo batho ba moaparo oa Nchafatso ba aparang ka teng, ke kamoo Benito Juárez le Lerdos de Tejada ba neng ba itlhahisa kateng.
Bakeng sa basali, mehla ea lerato e qala: mese e tlotsitsoeng ka silika e pharalletseng, marikhoe a taffeta kapa k'hothone a khutlile. Moriri o bokelletsoeng ka hara bulu o ratoa joalo ka li-shawls, shawls, shawls le scarves. Basali bohle ba batla fan le sekhele. Ena ke feshene ea basali haholo, e khabane, empa e ntse e sena litšila tse ntle haholo. Empa boinyenyefatso ha bo nke nako e telele. Ha Maximiliano le Carlota ba fihla, li-saraos le maqhubu a khutla.
"Batho" le feshene ea eona e sa felloeng ke nako
Hona joale re etela literata le limmaraka ho atamela haufi le "batho ba toropo". Banna ba roala borikhoe bo bokhutšoaane kapa bo bolelele, empa ha ho na khaello ea batho ba ikhurumetsang feela ka lesela, hammoho le lihempe tse bonolo le likobo tse tšoeu tsa kobo, mme ba sa tsamaeng ba sa roala lieta ba roala li-huarache kapa lieta. Haeba moruo oa bona o e lumella, ba apara marikhoe a boea kapa lisarape tse nang le meralo e fapaneng ho latela sebaka seo ba tsoang ho sona. Petate, ikutloa le "litonki tsa mpa" li ngata.
Basali ba bang ba roala seaparo se sekameng - se likhutlo li 'ne se lohuoe thekeng se tlanngoeng thekeng ka senyepa kapa senyepa-, ba bang ba khetha seaparo se otlolohileng se entsoeng ka kobo e entsoeng ka matsoho kapa twill, hape se tlamiloe ka lebanta, sekhola sa molala o chitja le "sleeve" sa "balune". Hoo e ka bang bohle ba roala lisepa hloohong, mahetleng, ba tšela sefubeng kapa mokokotlong, ho jara ngoana.
Tlas'a seaparo ba apara mose oa k'hothone kapa botlaaseng bo khabisitsoeng ka lesela la lihakisi kapa bobine. Li entsoe ka ho arohana bohareng le li-braids (ka mahlakoreng kapa ho potoloha hlooho) tse qetellang ka lithane tse mebala-bala. Ts'ebeliso ea li-huipiles tse khabisitsoeng kapa tse khabisitsoeng tseo ba li aparang, ka tsela ea pele ho Sepanishe, e ntse e le ntho e tloaelehileng haholo. Basali ke li-brunette tse nang le moriri o motšo le mahlo, ba khetholloa ka bohloeki ba bona le masale a bona a maholo le lifaha tse entsoeng ka likorale, silevera, lifaha, majoe kapa peo. Ba iketsetsa liaparo ka bobona.
Ka mahaeng, moaparo oa banna o fetotsoe ha nako e ntse e tsamaea: moaparo o bonolo oa matsoalloa o fetoloa seaparo sa borikhoe ba marikhoe a malelele a nang le chaps kapa suede breeches, hempe ea kobo le matsoho a sephara le lesela le lekhuts'oane kapa baki ea suede. Har'a tse hlahelletseng ka ho fetisisa ke likonopo tsa silevera le ribone tse khabisang moaparo, tse entsoeng le ka letlalo kapa silevera.
Li-caporales li roala li-chaparera le li-cotonas tsa suede, tse loketseng ho mamella mesebetsi e boima ea mahaeng. Lieta tsa letlalo tse nang le marapo le petate, soya kapa katiba ea letlalo - e fapaneng tikolohong ka ngoe- phethela seaparo sa monna ea mahlahahlaha oa mahaeng. Ba Chineko, balebeli ba mahaeng ba tummeng ba lekholo la leshome la metso e robong la lilemo, ba apere seaparo sena, e leng moemeli ea tobileng oa moaparo oa charro, ea tummeng ho pholletsa le lefats'e mme ke sesupo sa monna "oa Mexico" ka nepo.
Ka kakaretso, mese ea "batho", ba maemo a tlase, e fetohile hanyane haholo ho theosa le makholo a lilemo mme liaparo tseo semelo sa tsona se lahlehileng ka nako li setseng. Libakeng tse ling tsa Mexico, mese ea pele ho Sepanishe e ntse e sebelisoa kapa ka mekhoa e meng e behiloeng ke Colony. Libakeng tse ling, haeba li sa etsoe letsatsi le letsatsi, li aparoa meketeng ea bolumeli, ea sechaba le ea boithabiso. Ke liaparo tse entsoeng ka matsoho, tse rarahaneng ka bokhabane le botle bo boholo tseo e leng karolo ea bonono bo tsebahalang mme li etsa motlotlo, eseng ho ba li aparang feela, empa le ho bohle ba Mexico.
Mohloli: México en el Tiempo No. 35 Hlakubele / Mmesa 2000
