Serape, e leng e 'ngoe ea liaparo tsa moetlo oa banna oa Mexico, e na le litlatsetso, kabo, thekiso le ts'ebeliso, eseng feela likarolo tse ikhethileng tsa moruo le thekenoloji, empa le liphihlelo tsa lefats'e moo baluki ba qoelitsoeng teng. ea meralo le mekhabiso ea masela a bona.
Nalane ea serape e ka lateloa ka tlhahiso ea masela ea k'hothone le boea, thepa e tala eo e entsoeng ka eona, hape le ka ho ba teng ha eona khafetsa trousseau ea banna.
Seaparo sena se entsoe libakeng tse fapaneng tsa naha, ka hona se khethiloe ka mabitso a fapaneng; tse atileng haholo ke tilma, jase, baki, jorongo, k'hothone, kobo le kobo.
Serape ke seaparo se ikhethileng se kopanyang lineano tsa ho loha tsa Mesoamerican le Europe. Ho tloha pele o sebelisa ts'ebeliso ea k'hothone, lidae le meralo; ho tloha ho la bobeli, ts'ebetso ea ho lokisa boea ho fihlela kopano ea foreimi e etsang masela; Nts'etsopele ea eona le katleho ea eona e etsahetse ho pholletsa le lekholo la bo18 le la bo19 la lilemo, ha li ne li etsoa ka boleng bo makatsang (ka lebaka la mokhoa, 'mala le meralo e sebelisitsoeng) lithupelong tse ngata libakeng tsa hajoale tsa Zacatecas, Coahuila, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Querétaro, Puebla le Tlaxcala.
Lekholong la ho qetela la lilemo e ne e le seaparo se arohaneng sa bo-peon, bapalami ba lipere, li-charros, léperos le batho ba litoropo. Li-cotton tsena tse entsoeng malapeng li fapana le li-sarape tse majabajaba tse aparoang ke beng ba masimo le banna ba hlomphehang meketjaneng, saraos, Paseo de la Viga, Alameda, joalo ka ha li hlalositsoe le ho pentoa ke bataki, baeti Baahi le bajaki, ba sitoang ho phonyoha boloi ba mmala le moralo oa eona.
Serape e tsamaea le marabele, Chinacos le Silvers; u bone barati ba naha ea bona ntoeng khahlanong le mohlaseli oa Amerika kapa oa Fora; Ke boitlamo ba liberals, ba tloaetseng ho itšireletsa le ba lemalloang ho moemphera.
Ntoeng ea bafetoheli ke folakha, setšabelo kampong, sekoaelo sa ba oelang lebaleng la ntoa. Letšoao la Mexico ha ho hlokahala phokotso e bonolo: ka sombrero feela le serape, ho hlalosoa Mexico ka hare le kantle ho meeli ea rona.
Serape, e tona e lekanang le rebozo ho basali, e sebetsa joalo ka seaparo, joalo ka mosamo, kobo le kobo ka masiu a batang lithabeng le mahoatateng; Cape e ntlafalitsoeng ho Jaripeos, seaparo se sirelletsang pula.
Ka lebaka la bokhabane ba mokhoa oa eona oa ho loha, 'mala oa eona le moralo oa eona, e itšoara ka bokhabane ebang ke ka maoto kapa ka pere. E khumame lehetleng, e khabisa ea tants'ang, o pata mantsoe a lerato a baratuoa, o ba felehetsa ka serenade; E teng bakeng sa banyaluoa le bethe ea ngoana.
Ha ts'ebeliso ea liaparo tse entsoeng ka indasteri e ntse e tsebahala, serape e tloha toropong e ea libakeng tsa mahaeng, libakeng tseo lits'oaro le bapalami ba lipere ba e aparang le moo banna ba baholo ba hanang ho e tlohela. Metseng e khabisa mabota le fuluru; E etsa hore matlo ao e khethiloeng ho 'ona e be lesela kapa khapete a phutholohe, mme e sebeletsa ho fa moea meketjana le "masiu a Mexico". Qetellong, ke karolo ea liaparo tsa bashebelli le mariachi tse mapatlelong tse tsamaeang le meso ea pele ea ba ketekang ketsahalo, kapa mohlomong ba lebala masoabi.
Hajoale li ka etsoa indastering ka mechini e tsoetseng pele haholo, kapa litsing tsa lithupelo moo litsebi tsa mesebetsi ea matsoho li sebetsang ho loom ea lehong, le ka malapeng, ho loom ea morao-rao. Ka mantsoe a mang, hammoho le tlhahiso ea lihlahisoa tse ikhethileng le karohano e phahameng ea basebetsi, ho na le mefuta e meng ea mesebetsi ea matsoho le ea malapa e ntseng e boloka tlhahiso ea khale ea serape.
Lihlahisoa li ananeloa ka mokhoa oa tsona, moralo le boleng, 'me li reretsoe' maraka o fapaneng, ekaba oa lehae, oa tikoloho kapa oa naha. Mohlala, serape e mebala-bala e hlahisitsoeng Chiauhtempan le Contla, Tlaxcala, ke sekhechana sa mantlha seaparong sa "Parachicos", batantshi ba Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas. Li-jorongos li rekisetsoa bahahlauli kahare le kantle ho naha mabenkeleng a ikhethang mesebetsing ea matsoho ea Mexico. Theko ea eona e ipapisitse le mefuta eohle ea tlhahiso le thepa e tala e sebelisitsoeng lesela la eona.
Ka lebaka la boteng ba eona liaparong tsa banna, nalaneng le jeukeng ea masela ea naha ea rona, bafuputsi ba Seteishene sa Ethnography sa Setsi sa pokello ea nalane ea Naha ba ile ba nka mosebetsi oa ho bokella jorongos ho tsoa liprofinseng tse fapaneng tsa Rephabliki. e entsoeng metseng e nang le moetlo oa khale oa masela kapa libakeng tseo bajaki ba hlahisang mefuta ea mosebetsi o tloaelehileng libakeng tsa bona tsa tlhaho.
Pokello ea sarape setsing sa pokello ea nalane ea nalane ea nalane ea nalane e kenyelletsa mefuta e mengata ea mahlale le mekhoa; e 'ngoe le e' ngoe e na le litšobotsi tse re lumellang ho lemoha hore na e tsoa kae. Mohlala, manane a mebala-bala a etsa hore re nahane ka masela a tsoang SaltiIlo, Coahuila; Aguascalientes; Teocaltiche, Jalisco, le Chiauhtempan, Tlaxcala. Mosebetsi o rarahaneng oa ho loha o re lebisa San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; San Luis Potosi; Xonacatlán, San Pedro Temoaya le Coatepec Harinas, Setereke sa Mexico; Jocotepec le Encarnación de Díaz, Jalisco; Los Reyes, Hidalgo; Coroneo le San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
Baluki ba etsang likopi tsa litšoantšo le naha naheng ea lijase tsa bona ba sebetsa Guadalupe, Zacatecas; San Bernardino Contla, Tlaxcala; Tlaxiaco le Teotitlán deI Valle, Oaxaca. Sebakeng sena sa ho qetela le Santa Ana deI Valle, Oaxaca, ba boetse ba sebelisa likhoele tse dailoeng ka lidae tsa tlhaho le ho hlahisa litšoantšo tsa bangoli ba tummeng.
Ho tloaelehile hore serape e entsoeng ka marang-rang a marang-rang e be le mekotla e 'meli e lohiloeng, eo ka bobeli e kopantsoeng le bokhoni bo boholo hoo e shebahalang e le ntho e le' ngoe, leha tse entsoeng ka lithupa li le karolo e le 'ngoe. Le ha li-sarape tse likarolo li peli li lohiloe ho li-pedal loom, ka kakaretso masela a sekhechana se le seng a etsoa mochining ona. Tabeng ena, ho buloa mokokotlong oo hlooho e fetang ka oona ebe seile e thella ho ea mahetleng. Sebaka sena le karolo e ka tlase ea kobo ke sona se ratoang haholo bakeng sa ho etsa meralo e majabajaba ka ho fetisisa. Malebela a phuthoa; libakeng tse ling ba tloaetse ho li tlama, 'me ho tse ling ba eketsa moeli o lohiloeng ka hakisi.
Tlhahiso ea li-sarape, merabeng e fapaneng ea naha likarolo tse ngata tsa setso li bolokiloe ts'ebetsong ea ho ohla, ho daea le ho loha boea kapa k'hothone, meralo le lisebelisoa tsa mosebetsi. Ka khoele e ntle boea ke li-sarape tsa Coras le Huichols, hammoho le tse entsoeng Coatepec Harinas le Donato Guerra, State of Mexico; Jalacingo, Veracruz; Charapan le Paracho, Michoacán; Hueyapan, Morelos le Chicahuaxtla, Oaxaca.
Tse tsoang San Pedro Mixtepec, San Juan Guivine le Santa Catalina Zhanaguía, Oaxaca, li entsoe ka boea le chichicaztle, fiber ea meroho e fang li-jorongos mmala o motala le botenya bo boima le bo boima. Zinacantán, Chiapas, banna ba roala k'hothone e nyane (colera), e lohiloeng ka likhoele tse tšoeu le tse khubelu tsa k'hothone, e khabisitsoeng ka masela a mebala-bala.
Karolo e ka morao ea mohala oa marang-rang e bohlokoa har'a batho ba lohang Tzotzil, Tzeltal, Nahua, Mixes, Huaves, Otomi, Tlapanec, Mixtec le Zapotec. Li-cotone tsa Chamula le Tenejapa, Chiapas, li ntle haholo; Chachahuantla le Naupan, Puebla; Hueyapan, Morelos; Santa María Tlahuitontepec, San Mateo deI Mar, Oaxaca; Santa Ana Hueytlalpan, Hidalgo; Jiquipilco, Setereke sa Mexico; Apetzuca, Guerrero, le Cuquila, Tlaxiaco le Santa María Quiatoni, Oaxaca.
Sekhahla se sebelisoang ke basali ba Yaqui, Mayos le Rrámuri ka leboea ho naha, se na le lifate tse 'ne tse patiloeng; Lifate tse lumellang moralo oa lesela le tlhahiso ea sarape Masiaca, Sonora le Urique, Chihuahua, li tšetsoe ka holim'a tsona.
The foreimi e etsang masela ka kakaretso e entsoe ka lehong; e sebelisetsoa ho etsa litekanyo tse kholo ka potlako le ho pheta lipaterone le mekhabiso e khabisitsoeng; Ka mokhoa o ts'oanang, e lumella ho kenyelletsa mekhoa ea upholstery. Har'a tlhahiso e kholo ea serape, tse tsoang Malinaltepec, Guerrero; Tlacolula, Oaxaca; Santiago Tianguistenco, Setereke sa Mexico; Bernal, Querétaro, le El Cardonal, Hidalgo.
Serapa sa Saltillo
Ho nahanoa hore ho pholletsa le lekholo la leshome le metso e robeli la lilemo le halofo ea pele ea leshome le metso e robong, li-jorongos tse ntle ka ho fetisisa li entsoe, tse 'nileng tsa bitsoa "classics" bakeng sa phetheho le mokhoa o fihletsoeng ha ba etsoa.
Tloaelo ea ho loha lithupa tsa maoto e tsoa ho batho ba Tlaxcalans, balekane ba Crown ea Spain kholoneng ea leboea la naha, ba lulang libakeng tse ling tsa Querétaro, San Luis Potosí, Coahuila le Taos, Rio Grande Valley le San Antonio, ba hona joale United States of North America.
Ho ba teng ha mapolasi a likhomo libakeng tsena ho netefalitse thepa e tala le mmaraka oa seaparo sena, se ileng sa fetoha liaparo tse ratoang haholo ke ba neng ba le teng pontsong lilemong tseo tsa Saltillo. Ho tsoa toropong ena e tsejoang e le "Key to the Inland," bahoebi ba tlisa likarolo tse ikhethileng lipapatsong tse ling: lipontšo tsa Maapache tse Taos le tsa San Juan de los Lagos, Jalapa le Acapulco.
Nakong ea nako ea bokolone, litoropo tse 'maloa li qothisana lehlokoa le sarape e entsoeng Saltillo mme, hanyane ka hanyane, lebitso lena le amahanngoa le setaele se itseng se khetholloang ka mokhoa oa sona o motle,' mala le moralo.
Leha ho le joalo, liphetoho tsa lipolotiki tse etsahetseng kamora boipuso li ferekantse bophelo bohle ba moruo ba naha. Khaello ea lijalo e ama mehlape, le ho se sireletsehe litseleng, theko ea boea le ea sarape, eo benghali ba bang ba ka e rekang le ho e bonts'a Paseo de la Villa le Alameda ka hara toropo. ho tloha Mexico. Mamati a bulehileng a sechaba a lumella ho fihla ha batho ba bangata ba Europe bao ka mahlo a makatsang ba bonang mabopo a rona, libaka tsa naha, litoropo le basali ba teratotta le mahlo a matsho. Ea liaparo tsa bonna, serape ea polychrome ea Saltillo e ile ea hohela tlhokomelo, hoo baetsi ba litšoantšo ba kang Nebel, Linati, Pingret, Rugendas le Egerton ba ileng ba e hapa ka mekhabiso le litsoantso tse fapaneng. Ka mokhoa o ts'oanang, bangoli ba joalo ka Marquesa Calderón de Ia Barca, Ward, Lyon le Mayer ba e hlalosa libukeng le likoranteng tsa Europe le Mexico. Litsebi tsa naha le tsona ha li balehe tšusumetso ea hae: Casimiro Castro le Tomás Arrieta ba nehelana ka eena ho Iitographs le metako e 'maloa; Molemong oa bona, Payno, García Cubas le Prieto ba bala maqephe a 'maloa.
Ntoeng ea karohano le Texas (1835), masole a Mexico a ne a roala masela holim 'a junifomo ea' ona e hlabisang lihlong, e neng e fapane le ea baetapele ba bona, joalo ka e aparoang le e lahliloeng ke General Santa Anna. Letsatsi lena le la ntoa e khahlano le United States (1848), li sebeletsa ho boloka mefuta e meng ea serape ka polokeho, 'me likarolo tsa moralo li lumella mola o iphetotseng hore o lateloe ho theosa le makholo a lilemo a Colony. Tlholisanong e boletsoeng ka holimo e bonahala e fokotsa tlhoro ea tlhahiso ea li-sarape tse neng li tsamaisoa ke masole ho khabisa matlo a bona, hammoho le tsa likharebe tsa bona, likhaitseli le bo-mme.
Ntoa, kaho ea seporo le nts'etsopele ea Monterrey li ama leeme la Saltillo mme ke tsona mabaka a etsang hore ho fokotsehe ha tlhabollo ea masela e phethahetseng toropong eo.
Serape ea Saltillo e latela litsela tse ka leboea. MaNavajo a ithutile ho sebelisa boea le ho loha masarape Rio Grande Valley, Arizona, le Valle Redondo, New Mexico, ka sebopeho le setaele sa Saltillo. Tshusumetso e nngwe e bonahala e fumanwa maseleng a mang ka hara naha, mohlala ho la Aguascalientes le San Miguel de Allende; leha ho le joalo, tse entsoeng makholong a lilemo a boletsoeng li fapane. Li-sarape tse bitsoang Saltillo tse entsoeng libakeng tse fapaneng seterekeng sa Tlaxcala, hammoho le San Bernardino Contla, San Miguel Xaltipan, Guadalupe Ixcotla, Santa Ana Chiautempan le San Rafael Tepatlaxco, tse tsoang ho bomasepala ba Juan Cuamatzi le Chiautempan, li ntle haholo boleng ba setsebi.
Botle ba seaparo se fetang meeli ea rona, hammoho le tlhompho ea batho ba Mexico bakeng sa litloaelo tsa bona, li bolokile serape e phela: joalo ka seaparo sa bohlokoa ebile e le letšoao la moetlo.
Mohloli: Mexico ka Nako No. 8 Phato-Loetse 1995
